Tips on choosing a hair dye based on your hair colour tone

Achieving vibrant results with semi-permanent hair dye isn’t just about choosing a bold colour—it’s about understanding your hair colour tone. Hair colour tones, often referred to by colourists as levels, play a major role in how dyes look on your hair. Let’s explore what these tones are, how to identify your level, and how to use this knowledge to pick the best semi-permanent dyes for your hair.

What Are Hair Colour Tones?

In hair colouring, tones refer to the natural or dyed level of lightness or darkness in your hair, often classified on a scale from 1 to 10:

• Level 1: Black (deep and rich).
• Levels 2–4: Dark browns.
• Levels 5–6: Medium to light browns.
• Levels 7–10: Blonde shades, ranging from dark blonde to the palest platinum.

Tones can also have undertones, such as:

• Warm (gold, red, orange): Seen in shades like golden blonde or auburn brown.
• Cool (ash, blue, green): Found in ash browns or platinum blondes.
• Neutral (balanced): A mix of warm and cool tones, like natural brown or beige blonde.

Your natural tone affects how semi-permanent dyes interact with your hair, as these dyes coat the hair rather than fully penetrating it like permanent colour. We will not cover the undertones in this article as that adds another level of complexity.

How to Determine Your Hair Colour Tone

To identify your hair colour tone, assess both its level (lightness/darkness).

Evaluate Your Current Hair Level:

• Look at your hair under natural light. Is it closer to black, brown, or blonde?
• Match your hair shade to the 1–10 scale. If your hair is dyed, use the current colour for reference.

Identify Undertones:

• Warm tones appear golden, red, or orange under light.
• Cool tones show ash, green, or blue undertones.
• Neutral tones are balanced, with no distinct warm or cool cast.

Your hair tone level determines how semi-permanent colours will show up. Here’s how to make the most of it:

Blonde Hair (Levels 7–10)

Blonde hair provides an excellent base for semi-permanent dyes, but the results vary depending on how light your blonde tone is:

Levels 9–10 (Light Blonde to Platinum)

• Perfect for Pastels: At these lightest levels, the absence of dark pigments allows delicate pastel shades as available in our pastel hair dye collection.
• Bright Neon Colours: Neon hues, like lime green or neon blue, appear as their most vivid because there are no undertones interfering with the dye as available in our neon hair dye collection.
• Bright Vibrant Shades: Any colour in our range will be vibrant as expected on the colour swatch.
• Silver and White Toners:  The Silverlook and White will only tone the hair to the required shade at level 9 - 10.
• Minimal Pre-Lightening: Hair at these levels is often already light enough, so little to no additional lightening is needed.

Levels 7–8 (Dark Blonde to Medium Blonde)

• Rich Vibrant Shades: These tones are ideal for jewel tones, such as Tropical Green, Royal Blue, and Violet, which show beautifully on darker blondes. The darker shades will show will show with some vibrancy. 
• Managing Warm Undertones: Darker blonde hair often has golden or yellow undertones. Cool-toned dyes like blues or purples can neutralise these tones, creating balanced results.
• To achieve pastel or neon colours or brighter colours, pre-lightening is necessary for full vibrancy.

Light Brown Hair (Levels 5–6)

• Vivid Colours: Dark jewel tones like Blue Black, Plume or Pitch Black show well on this base.
• Warmer Shades: Reds and oranges enhance the natural warmth of brown tones. They will not show as vibrant red or oranges but as tones of the colour.
• To achieve pastel or neon colours or brighter colours, pre-lightening is necessary for full vibrancy.

Dark Brown Hair (Levels 2–4)

• Bold Shades: Deep reds, dark purples, and blues will provide a subtle yet striking look.
• Dimensional Highlights: Lighter areas of brown hair can create multi-tonal effects with semi-permanent dye.
• To achieve pastel or neon colours or brighter colours, pre-lightening is necessary for full vibrancy.

Black Hair (Level 1)

• Rich Tones: Plume, Tropical Green, and Blue Black create subtle, sophisticated effects. These will be more of a sheen that actual vibrant hair shades.
• For maximum vibrancy with lighter or brighter colours, pre-lightening is essential. Without it, the dye will not be as visible.

Bleaching Your Hair to Adjust Colour Levels

If you have brown to black hair and want vibrant, eye-catching results with semi-permanent dye, bleaching is often necessary. Bleaching helps to take down your hair’s natural level by removing the dark pigments and creating a lighter base for colours to stand out.

How Much Can You Lighten?

Our Vegan Hair bleach can lift your hair by up to 7 levels in one session. For example:

• A Level 3 (dark brown) can be lightened to a Level 9 (light blonde).
• A Level 1 (black) can be lifted to a Level 7 (medium blonde).

This process is essential if you want bright neon shades or pastels to appear true to their intended colour. Without pre-lightening, darker tones in your hair will mix with the dye and mute the vibrancy, resulting in subtle or barely noticeable changes.

Dangers of Bleaching

While bleaching is effective, it can weaken the hair if not done correctly. The process involves using strong chemicals to break down the hair’s natural pigments, which can lead to:

• Dryness: Bleaching strips the hair of moisture.
• Breakage: Over-processing can cause the hair shaft to become brittle and snap.
• Scalp Sensitivity: Bleach can irritate or damage the scalp if applied incorrectly.

To minimise these risks:

• Consult a professional colourist, especially if you’re lightening your hair more than a few levels.
• Space out bleaching sessions to avoid over-processing.
• Use nourishing treatments like deep conditioners or bond-building products after bleaching to repair and strengthen the hair.

Why Bleaching Is Important for Vibrancy

For individuals with brown or black hair, pre-lightening creates a blank canvas that allows semi-permanent dyes to show their full potential. Without bleaching:

• Pastels (like lavender or baby pink) won’t appear as intended, as they require a light blonde base.
• Bright neon shades (like lime green or electric blue) will appear dull or not show up at all.

If you’re aiming for bold, vibrant results, lifting your hair to at least a Level 7 (medium blonde) is recommended.

Conclusion

Understanding your hair colour tone is essential for achieving vibrant, long-lasting results with semi-permanent dyes. Whether you’re blonde, brunette, or black-haired, selecting the right colours and pre-lightening when necessary can help you achieve maximum vibrancy. With a little knowledge of tone and preparation, you can enjoy bold, beautiful hair that truly shines!